Kevin Rathbun Steak Four stars

154 Krog Street, Atlanta. 404-524-5600.

www.kevinrathbunsteak.com

It only stands to reason that restaurateur Kevin Rathbun — raised in Kansas City with a penchant for cooking approachable cuisine and an Atlanta pedigree that includes the Buckhead Life group and his own growing family of popular restaurants (Rathbun's, Krog Bar) — might, just might, decide to open a steakhouse. The no-way-this-could-fail idea must have been irresistible to the chef we love to love. And while the menu indeed caters to the carnivorous, the most surprising and perhaps pleasing thing about Kevin Rathbun Steak is that someone who doesn't eat meat could find plenty to eat — and like — about it. Portion sizes, as expected, are generous. Sides of crispy, light fried okra (with Rathbun's pleasing remoulade) and a cute crock of scalloped sweet potatoes intermingled with Gruyere cheese are reason enough to not order steak. The two-inch-thick prime steaks are beautiful, though the crown for best in the city still belongs to Bones. Gorgeous nonetheless, they certainly put in a grand showing for close second. 5:30-10:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5:30-11:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. $$$$


MERIDITH FORD

The Atlanta Journal-Constituion

mford@ajc.com