Kevin Rathbun Steak 154 Krog Street, Atlanta. 404-524-5600. It only stands to reason that restaurateur Kevin Rathbun — raised in
Kansas City with a penchant for cooking approachable cuisine and an
Atlanta pedigree that includes the Buckhead Life group and his own
growing family of popular restaurants (Rathbun's, Krog Bar) — might,
just might, decide to open a steakhouse. The no-way-this-could-fail
idea must have been irresistible to the chef we love to love. And while
the menu indeed caters to the carnivorous, the most surprising and
perhaps pleasing thing about Kevin Rathbun Steak is that someone who
doesn't eat meat could find plenty to eat — and like — about it.
Portion sizes, as expected, are generous. Sides of crispy, light fried
okra (with Rathbun's pleasing remoulade) and a cute crock of scalloped
sweet potatoes intermingled with Gruyere cheese are reason enough to
not order steak. The two-inch-thick prime steaks are beautiful, though
the crown for best in the city still belongs to Bones. Gorgeous
nonetheless, they certainly put in a grand showing for close second.
5:30-10:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 5:30-11:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays.
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MERIDITH FORD
The Atlanta Journal-Constituion